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Demystifying the skin care effects of vitamin C derivatives

2022-06-24

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid (Asorbic Acid), the most effective is its left-right-handed optical structure, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is the earliest and most classic whitening ingredient, both internal and external use have whitening effect. However, the unstable structure of Vitamin C itself, easy discoloration and limited water solubility, and it cannot be directly absorbed by the skin, which limits its application in cosmetics. However, vitamin C has a strong support group. Today, Xiaobian will introduce those vitamin C derivatives that are "not afraid of light".

Vitamin C Glucoside

Vitamin C glucoside (AA2G) is one of the whitening additives approved by the Department of Health, and is recognized as the most stable vitamin C derivative. It can not only inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the formation of melanin, but also restore melanin, relieve the formed melanin and reduce pigmentation, so as to achieve its skin-whitening and brightening skin care effects. VC glucoside can also promote the synthesis of collagen, improve skin wrinkles and rough dry skin and other problems, so that the skin looks plump and translucent.

INCI name: ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE

Stability: good photothermal stability, not easy to decompose.

Vitamin C ethyl ether

It is reported that vitamin C ethyl ether (VCE) is the best vitamin C derivative so far, and it is easily decomposed by biological enzymes after entering the skin to play the role of vitamin C. Moreover, it has a lipophilic and hydrophilic amphiphilic structure, which makes it extremely convenient to use in Cosmetic formulations. In addition, this amphiphilicity makes it easier to penetrate the stratum corneum into the dermis, thereby inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and preventing Cut off the formation of melanin, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, give skin elasticity, repair skin cell activity, and promote collagen production.

INCI name: ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

Stability: stable chemical properties, light resistance, heat resistance, acid resistance, alkali resistance, salt resistance, not easy to be oxidized by air.

Magnesium Vitamin C Phosphate

Magnesium Vitamin C Phosphate (MAP) is a tyrosinase inhibitor, which reduces the intermediates of melanin, which can hinder the oxidation chain reaction from tyrosine/dopachrome interconvertase to melanin at various points, with freckle removal Whitening effect, after entering the human body, it can eliminate oxygen free radicals, and can also promote the production of dermal collagen, so it has anti-wrinkle and Anti-Aging effects.

INCI name: MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

Stability: Alkali and high temperature resistance, stable in light, heat and air, not easy to change color.

Sodium Vitamin C Phosphate

Sodium Vitamin C Phosphate (SAP) is a vitamin C derivative with stable physical and chemical properties. After percutaneous absorption, it can effectively resist ultraviolet rays, capture free radicals, and promote collagen production. It has antioxidant and anti-aging properties. effect. And it can effectively prevent pigmentation, help to eliminate skin pigmentation such as freckles and age spots, and achieve its whitening effect. In addition, sodium vitamin C phosphate has a therapeutic effect on facial acne and pimples.

INCI name: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE)

Stability: stable chemical properties, not easy to be oxidized, good photothermal stability.

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