Cosmetics is a fashionable and trendy industry, and new ingredients emerge every year, each leading the way for three or five years. Many very popular ingredients are slowly forgotten by people over time. But some ingredients, although the trend has faded, are still standing and are still being used, and these ingredients must have their unique effects. Among the many classic ingredients, Kojic Acid is one of them.
The experience of kojic acid in Cosmetic Ingredients, like many lives, has gone through ups and downs. From the beginning of the popularity, to falling from the altar, being banned from use, and later being rehabilitated and re-applied, it took decades before and after. Now, the research on kojic acid has been very detailed.
Kojic acid can be produced by the fermentation of various substances by Aspergillus (a fungus), and pure kojic acid is mainly produced by the fermentation of glucose. Kojic acid is a small molecular component with a molecular weight of 142.22, which can be directly absorbed through the skin. Kojic acid component alias: 2-hydroxymethyl-5-hydroxy-γ-pyrone.
Kojic acid was first used in food, medicine, agriculture and other fields since its discovery. In the field of food, it can be used as a Food Additive to keep fresh, antiseptic and antioxidant. Later, some research institutes found that kojic acid has a good whitening effect and can lighten pigmentation. After this application was discovered, kojic acid began to be used as a skin lightening agent and was widely used in whitening and spot lightening products.
We know that melanin is the core component that leads to darkening of the skin and the appearance of pigmentation. It inhibits the production of melanin, which can whiten and fade spots. In the process of melanin production, tyrosinase is an essential catalyst. Kojic acid can compete with tyrosinase for copper ions, make tyrosinase inactive, block the production of melanin, and achieve the purpose of whitening and fading.
Some friends don't know much about the ingredients. When they see that kojic acid has acid, they immediately associate it with fruit acid. In fact, the whitening mechanisms of kojic acid and AHA are completely different, neither exfoliating the keratinocytes nor thinning the stratum corneum.
After years of comparative research and the actual experience of a large number of consumers, it is recognized that "kojic acid" has excellent whitening and lightening effects. Once "hydroquinone", the gold standard for whitening. So that many whitening raw materials are often promoted with the slogan "How many times the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase is kojic acid". Many European and American dermatologists have used 2-4% kojic acid to treat patients with chloasma, and achieved good results. Interested friends can search, whether it is English literature or Chinese literature, there are many discussions on the treatment of chloasma with kojic acid.
Regarding the safety of kojic acid, after decades of research, it can basically be concluded that it is safe to use in cosmetics within a limited range, so don't worry.
Kojic acid is abandoned by most manufacturers. In addition to the above negative news, there is another important reason, which is stability. Like all whitening products, "kojic acid" is sensitive to light and high temperature, and is easily decomposed and oxidized in these environments.
How to make kojic acid products that remain stable during the shelf life without oxidative decomposition is a great challenge for formulators. Kojic acid has relatively high requirements on PH. In an environment with a PH value of 4, it can withstand high temperature challenges. If the PH value of the product exceeds 5, it is easy to oxidize and deteriorate.
Therefore, if you use products containing kojic acid during the day, you should do a good job of sun protection to protect the effect of kojic acid on your skin. If it is not used for a long time, it can be stored in the refrigerator to help moisturize the activity of kojic acid and prolong the shelf life.
