Everyone is addicted to fair, radiant, bright skin without wrinkles. Moral debates about the aesthetic appeal of whitening skin and its associated prejudices are ongoing. The maturity of social thinking and a more comprehensive treatment of beauty now make bright, healthy skin more pleasing and pleasant, rather than skin tone. In fact, it is now believed that healthy skin with dark and dark complexion is more beautiful, resembling a healthy weight, resembling the hungry appearance of anorexia.
Clean, disease-free, smooth, radiant and flawless skin is never in fashion. Before buying any cosmetics, we tend to explore the claims they make, and often because of our limited knowledge, we are often confused by the claims promoted, unproven clinical research, jargon, and quick-fix celebrity publicity. Therefore, it feels like a waste of money to buy products that do not have key ingredients to improve skin and brighten skin tone.
It is very important to study the ingredients of such cosmetics, their origins and their effectiveness on the skin and body. It is convenient for us to learn more about the key principles of why skin changes its color and invert before we plunge into purchases based on the noble claims that certain brands claim. As this is a slow process, it ultimately boils down to marketing and brand building, and rarely involves causality. Let us learn and make the right choice.
Melanin is the most important Pigment that determines skin color. Melanin is synthesized in the melanocyte organelles of melanocytes, and then melanin is transferred to nearby keratinocytes through the dendrites of melanocytes. The pathway of melanin synthesis can be understood through the following flow chart: Due to the action of tyrosinase, the Amino Acid tyrosine is oxidized to dopa and then to dopaquinone, and then the reaction proceeds through auto-oxidation and is accelerated by the enzyme.
Skin Lightening Agents
Hydroquinone was considered as the most effective skin lightening ingredient. But recent studies have shown the toxicity and carcinogenicity of hydroquinone. Due to this, there is a need for safer and better skin lightening agents in the market. Some of them are mentioned here:
Niacinamide – Niacinamide is one of the most stable vitamins. This is freely water soluble and solution is light stable. It is used to to fade age spots and lighten discoloration of the skin. It reduces the melanin transfer from melanocytes to skin surface. It actively reduces blemishes and spots and is non-irritating to the skin. It is also known to treat acne, wrinkle, fine lines and dry skin.
Alpha Arbutin – Arbutin is a natural form of hydroquinone derived from the bearberry plant. This is a safer and effective alternative to hydroquinone and is less cytotoxic to the melanocytes. It is stable, water soluble and used is in low concentrations. It reduces melanin production by suppressing the enzymes that stimulate melanin.
Beta Arbutin – Beta arbutin is natural and is derived from bearberry, cranberry, blueberry, and pears. It is water soluble, stable and is used in the concentration from 1-7%. It reduces hyperpigmentation by reducing melanin formation.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) – MAP is stable derivative of Vitamin C and effective antioxidant for skin. . It is nonirritating and more stable than Vitamin C. It appears to have the same potential as vitamin C to boost skin collagen synthesis but is effective in significantly lower concentrations. It appears to be a better choice than vitamin C for people with sensitive skin and those wishing to avoid any concomitant exfoliating effects.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) – Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable vitamin C derivative. It liberates vitamin C in the skin and protects the cells of the skin, promotes collagen formation, controls the formation of senile keratosis, and lightens dark skin. SAP is cleaved enzymatically in the skin to release active vitamin. It protects the cells against free radicals, boost collagen formation and acts as antioxidant.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (V-CoS) – V-CoS is a stable, oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative. It is stable against heat and light and is lipid-soluble, easy to use for cosmetics. Exhibits excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C in the skin to perform various physiological functions. It inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduces melanin. It has Anti-Aging effects, promotes collagen synthesis and reduce UVA and UVB damage.
ZigaMoist γ-PGA (Sodium Polyglutamate) – γ-PGA is a viscous liquid and is active ingredient of natt made from soyabean ferment. It has capability of penetrating into the stratum corneum, making the skin brighter. It is also known for treating skin wrinkles, promote elasticity and softeness to skin.
BST- Seed Whiter – Skin Whitening agent and is composed of – Scutellaria baicalensis, citrus junos seed extract, lactobacillus ferment, Niacinamide (Vit B3). It restrains the formation of melanin and gives visible skin lightening effect. It also has antioxidant activities and protect from UV damage. The ingredient prevent the melanin transfer and reduces hyperpigmentation.
